As of July 2022 this list was updated. Thanks. At the moment, I am taking orders on mics and I may have a short waiting list. But feel free to contact me to get on the list. Don’t forget! If you are in the market for a vintage shell of different styles or a 55 new or old, check with me first, if you buy from me I warranty everything for 2 years and can beat most peoples prices, but you also get screen color choices and sound upgrades. You can contact me at whoizitcc69@aol.com with any question you may have.. At the Moment I only have one completed Microphone ready to ship And its pictured below.. But I do have quite few mic shells on the shelf ready to sale if you cant find what you are looking for at a decent price or don’t already have a shell of your own. I have quite a few 55S or 556 in the small versions. I have a couple of the original FATBOYS too. I have an EV726, and one Western electric and Altec 639’s, two Astatic 77 in good condition. a couple of the Philips El6030 mics like in the picture to the right. I also have 1 very rare Turner 77 microphone. Now just because its not listed here doesn’t me I don’t have it now, I update my stock constantly. Also before you buy from anyone ask me first. I have plenty of contacts and I can get what you want in most cases, and cheaper than you can find it online. If you have any questions please ask. You can contact me directly at whoizitcc69@aol.com.




I offer all the following for free. Honesty, advice on mics, free answering of questions. Directions to find parts if I don’t have them. Good advice on these mics. Design and theme ideas for your on custom design, Wiring diagrams or where to find them instantly (not on light). Free shipping on any completed mic order in the US with free two year warranty. I also offer free installs on any element you buy from me you want added to your existing shell. Last but not least I can do computer drawings to show you what your mic may look like before I do it.. So you have no worries about how it will turn out. Hope this helps! Thanks

I try to keep my designs coming and have too many to list. So just because you may not see it, doesn’t mean I haven’t built it in the past or can not do it. Over 50% of my designs came from people like you, wanting something done and I figured out how to do it, and now sale them.

But these are some that I can share with you and have perfected and sell the most of.


see description of each light below. Note the lights even though may not show it in the picture are listed from brightest to dimmest with number 1 being the brightest and #10 being the dimmest.

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These next three pictures are just a few of the combinations I have for your choice in screen colors. If you don’t see something here you like check my past projects,

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#1 is Shiny Green. this is close to a aluminum foil shiny but green….. kind of looks metallic.

#2 is Flame screen. its black with the shiny metallic looking flames that are gold and red…

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see description of each light below. Note the lights even though may not show it in the picture are listed from brightest to dimmest with number 1 being the brightest and #10 being the dimmest. Also the colors may not be exact so read explantion for each.

  • #1 Arc white. Arc white is the same color as lighting with a slightly bluish purple tint. I call it arc white because it is the same color as an electrical arc. it is the brightest I have and not quite as bright as in this picture.
  • #2 is green and is about the same color as my lettering on my site.
  • #3 is bright blue. it is almost a Carolina blue or light blue but is brighter than the dark blue #4.
  • #4 Dark blue this is the one on the picture above. slightly darker and dimmer than #3
  • #5 natural white light. this may look yellow in color here but it is the exact same color as a light bulb in the house. but not as bright.
  • #6 is Pink… a very nice hot pink and pretty bright.. I actually think this is one of my favorites..
  • #7 red…. this is when the lights are starting to dim in color.. but still are about as bright as a Jack-o-lantern at Halloween or a cigarette lighter.
  • #8 UV or purple. this is the exact same color and brightness as a black light like at a club.. if you are a singer with fluorescent contacts or face paint this color is for you it will make them glow in the dark.
  • #9 amber or yellow one of the dimmest and has a yellow tint. reminds me of an old antique light.
  • #10. is orange and its the dimmest of the bunch for just a hair of effect without to much attention…. reminds me of an old antique light…yellow and orange both do…

Next is the Lighted LED mics. This is an option you can get added to your newer elements. it will not work with the vintage elements. But if you are upgrading with me to a new element even the 87 beta, I can add lights to your mic for 50.00. You will need an XLR connector or have me change the mic over to XLR for you, because these lights run off phantom power from the sound board. If your board does not have phantom power you can order a portable plug in or battery operated version for around 25.00 on Ebay. There are Many LED colors to choose from and they are listed below with a explanation of each.

  • #1 is Shiny Green. this is close to a aluminum foil shiny but green….. kind of looks metallic.
  • #2 is Flame screen. its black with the shiny metallic looking flames that are gold and red… this is a limited version for now. and the flames will block the lights but i can do a siloutte with them as seen in past projects.
  • #3 is Pearl shimmer. its very see through but has a pearl effect in the light with colors of pink blue purple and white according to how the light hits it. Much like a dragonfly wing. this color works well under other colors for effect.
  • #4 is Blue Red Camelion. its basically like a blue see through color but at angles and in lights reflects back between a very shiny blue and red works well over other colors, Like #1 or shiny golds (which I can get but don’t have).
  • #5 plain purple.. no shine.
  • #6 Plain red, No shine almost the color of blood. and a little more burgandy than in the picture. also my stock red color for vintage mics.
  • #7 Pain Blue, no shine and almost the same color as stock blue for vintage mics.. a little darker than in the picture.
  • #8 Is mesh. its actually aluminum mesh and it looks great over other colors, but can over power a color and looks best over black and white. Meaning certain colors do not show up very well under the mesh.
  • #9 is Lime green shimmer. is see through and has strands that shimmer and make it look shiny. but for the most part is the color of a lime. looks well over and under colors for effect.
  • #10 blue shimmer, is see through and looks well doubled up or over other colors like red for a neat two color effect. is lighter in color than #11.
  • #11 dark blue shimmer. this is see through but when doubled up is the exact same color as the blue in a stock Super 55. it does have a glimmer effect and looks better with the chrome mic than the stock super 55… very very nice. there is one on the welcome page.
  • #12 bright red shimmer. this is the exact polar opposite as the #11 blue. a very bright red shimmer that is see through and looks well doubled up or over other colors like blue.
  • #13 Off red shimmer. almost has a purple pinkish look in the light but is slightly off red. this color is awesome over blue.. you can see this effect in the two chrome mics lying down side by side on My 55 design page
  • #14 wine shimmer. this is a odd color and material. it almost has a shiny orange look in the light and dark red when doubled up. it has a very unique look over black to give a dark look but with an eye catching effect.
  • #15 is plain white. white does work best with all lighted colors being it spreads the light out and does not tint the LED’s down. But does not look that well when not let…But you can added the mesh screen over it to change the look when the lights are off.
  • #16 Black. #16 is not shown because everybody knows what black looks like…
  • (Note) all the colors above work well with the lighted mics, but the darker the color or the more layers you use you will lose some of the brightness of the lights… take that into consideration when choosing lights, because the lights all have different brightness as well… (see the notes under lights below.)

These next three pictures are just a few of the combinations I have for your choice in screen colors. If you don’t see something here you like check my past projects, or just tell me I may have the color or design already, that you will love. But for now, look at the number next to each color and read the write up I have about each one below these pics. It gives you insight and whether or not they can be used with lighted mics also.

You can even over lap colors for different effects
or choose the screen mesh with a color under it.

Next is one of the biggest and best designs I have. That’s replacement screens for your 55’s. I can do them for Small 55, fatboys 55’s and many other mics from way back! So lets say your old silk or foam in your 55 is rotten, missing, needs replacing or you just want to change the colors. Well I can do them a few options for you. One is you can send me the mic and I can replace it back to original. But if its a silk or cloth screen you are looking at around 30.00 to replace it. If its is foam, I can do it a little cheaper. and even do it free on a refurbish of the entire mic.. But lets say you want a custom color, and you don’t want to mail me the mic being you live on the other side of the planet or you need the mic for gigs. Well then My preformed screens are the answer. I can make you a custom screen in just about any color you like, that already has the shape of the inside of your mic and can change out in about 5 minutes with just a couple of screw drivers. Most are only 20.00 plus shipping. The fat boys are a little more around 30.00.

Another design I have is called the hard mounted XLR. I have them in black and in silver. they are gold pin XLR by switch craft and top of the line quality. These old vintage cords and connectors are hard to find and wear out over the years. So I designed a wired in, screwed in, version of a modern standard connector called the XLR. I can add it to just about any mic or I can even add it to old switch boxes too. And for a fraction of the cost of a vintage cord, they are only 25.00 to add to the mic. From that point on you can use any XLR standard cord. Now I do have a friend name Bob on my friends list who sales and adapter that just screws on, that he can just mail to you. He sales these for around 40.00, see his link two pictures below this one.. If rewiring your mic or changing the look of your mic is not something you would like to do.. Contact my friend Bob Beck and get one of his Quick change over adapters check out his products in the picture below. You can email him at bbeck81@bellsouth.net or look for his products on Ebay by going to his store. His Username there is bluetraderbob. Tell him Mutant Mics Sent you!
(see above for discription)

Next is what I like to call upgrade kits. I have My own design of what I call an upgrade kit for your mics. Over the years I have learned how to make them fit many mics, and have around 5 elements I can do. But not all will fit in every mic, so email me to see what may best suit your needs with the mic you have. The elements I have converted to fit different mics are as follows.  the Shure SM58, the Beta 58, the Beta 87, the R115 Modified. (the element in the 55SHII hot rodded to sound much better) and the Super 55 elements (which I have also made sound better). And Last I have recently converted the KSM9 and can get them to fit in a bigger mics like 55 Fatboy, a Turner 101, and EV726 shape mics.  When I say converted or “re-designed”, that’s what I mean. All these elements have designs in them that effect sound. Such as the SM58’s and Beta 58’s have a resonance chambers in the handle that make them sound the way they do. Without them, it will not sound the same. So just putting the element in a shell, is not what I’ve done nor will copy catting get the same effect. You will notice I do not show the backs or the insides for this reason. My designs are also made to where if you pull them apart, it will destroy the mic. So I wouldn’t suggest Buying one in hopes of reverse engineering it, unless you have the money to spare. :)

If you don’t have a shell of a mic and you are looking to buy a full finished Hybrid, Mutant Mic, email me I always have some type of shells lying around I can fix up for you.

And last is Chrome Plated. I also have this outsourced. Chrome plated is the real deal. Its where the mic is dipped in acid and all old chrome removed and new chrome is applied by electrolysis. This is a long process and expensive. It is the toughest finish with the least amount of maintenance. This can be done in real copper, nickle, gold and brass and even in brushed nickle like above. Depending on which finish you choose it can be around 200.00 to 300.00 for most mics and gold can be much much higher depending on the mic size and price of gold at the time..

Cosmi Color Chrome This is a process I have a company do for me. Its basically a tough plastic coating of chrome color that you can put on just about anything. you can get this in many colors also. This process is not perfect. The mics look great but they may have small runs or build up in small places and will not be perfect.. But this is the only way to get colored chrome and its not a very expensive process,170.00 per mic with shipping included.. 

For a look at my powder coating and colors write me at whoizitcc69@aol.com This is too new and I dont have many pics to post, so I can send you pics of what I do have.

There are 3 per mic and go here. If your mic has a rattle to it inside these are the problem. They are 10.00 for the set of 3 Choice of Chrome. I have 2 ways to chrome a mic and they have different pricing. One way is chrome plating.. Chrome Plating is just like the old chrome bumpers and cost around 200.00 to do for a small mic like a 55s or smaller depending on the details and condition. They are 300.00 for a big mic like an fatboy, EV726 or Turner 101A, EL6030. Another way to chrome is Cosmi chrome, I do not make any profit on either of these they are an out sourced item… Cosmi chrome is a liquid spray. They charge around 200.00 with shipping, but it can come in colors and be done on plastic or metal. And last I can powder coat microphones to just about any color you can think of from flat to gloss shine. I charge 100.00 to 125.00 to powder coat mics, for one color and it goes up according to multiple colors.

A new product I’m offering came about do to the high volume of questions for them. and that’s new element Shock mounts for vintage 55s in the small style not the Fatboys. but the 55s 55sw, PE55 or 556s. I finally completed a permanent mold for them and found a product that works very well form Polytek.. It fairly expensive though I have to charge a little more for a set of 3 than I would like. The good news is they will last forever, and not effected by water, hot or cold. and stay spongy. they do come in the original black color and are better fitted than the original ones Shure made out of foam back in the day.